Board and Batten Calculator
Estimate boards, battens, furring rows and trim for a vertical plank wall.
Five length units, five area units, and optional door and window deductions.
Updated October 20, 2026
Overview
A board and batten wall is a pattern, and the pattern almost never divides the wall evenly. This calculator takes the wall and two choices — how wide the boards are and how wide the gap behind each batten is — and turns them into a shopping list: how many boards, how many battens, how many rows of furring strip, and how much of each material to bring home.
It is meant for the person who is about to buy the timber: an accent wall in a hallway, a half-height panel behind a sofa, a garage wall or a garden-room wall. You can use it to build the order yourself, to check a builder’s takeoff, or to answer the question that comes before the order — will the pattern even fit?
Two details make it more useful than a single division. First, you can start from whichever measurement you already have: give the wall width and height, or give a wall area plus one dimension and the other one is worked out for you. Second, doors and windows are treated as an allowance rather than ignored, so the totals stay sensible when the wall is not a plain rectangle.
What the page assumes you are building
Full-height vertical boards finished with a batten over every seam, furring strip behind the boards, and horizontal trim at the top and bottom. If your layout differs — a partial height panel, exposed board edges, a different number of trim runs — the counts still help, but read the trim and furring totals with your own design in mind.
How to use it
Five steps describe the job. Everything else on the page follows from them.
Measure the wall
Enter the width and height of the section you will cover. All five supported length units work, and you can measure the width in one unit and the height in another.
Choose the board width
This is the face width of one board as it will sit on the wall. It is the wide measurement of the plank, not its thickness.
Choose the board spacing
This is the gap you will leave between two boards, which a batten then covers. Board width plus spacing is the pitch of the pattern, and the pitch is what divides the wall.
Add the openings, if any
Set how many doors and how many windows the wall has. The sizes start at a standard 7 ft by 5 ft door and a 4 ft by 3 ft window; change them if your openings are not standard. Leave both counts at zero for a plain wall.
Confirm the trim runs
Two trims is the usual top and bottom rail. A design with a single rail, or with more than two, changes only the trim total.
A wall you can check by hand
A 3 m wide, 5 m high wall, sided with 5 cm boards and 8 cm gaps, with no openings. The pitch is . Entered in centimetres, the wall width is 300, and the extra gap in the numerator puts a board at each end:
That fraction is the honest answer: 23 whole boards plus a sliver. The page reports 24 boards, because a sliver is still a board you have to buy and rip, and it reports 23 battens for the 23 seams between them.
The furring rows follow the height at one row every two feet, plus the row at the base:
That is 9.2 rows, which the page shows as 9. The strip total, though, uses whole rows, because you cannot buy four-fifths of a row: 10 rows of a 3 m wall is 30 m of strip. Board and batten material are the whole pieces times the height, so this wall needs 120 m of board and 115 m of batten, plus 6 m of trim for the two 3 m rails.
Reading the results
| Result | What it tells you |
|---|---|
| Number of boards | How many whole boards the pattern needs. It is rounded for reading, and the two material totals use the whole number. |
| Number of battens | One batten covers each seam between two boards, so a wall needs one fewer batten than boards. |
| Rows of furring strip | Horizontal support rows behind the boards: one every 2 ft (0.61 m) of height, plus one at the base. |
| Board material | Total length of board: the whole boards multiplied by the wall height, less the door and window allowance. |
| Batten material | Total length of batten: the whole battens multiplied by the wall height, less the same allowance. |
| Furring strip | Total length of strip: the whole rows multiplied by the wall width. |
| Trim | Total length of trim: one wall-width run for every trim in the design. |
How the numbers are worked out
Every relationship below runs both ways where it sensibly can: give a wall area together with one dimension and the other dimension is solved. The counts and material totals are results, so they follow your inputs rather than being typed into.
The board count
With boards there are gaps, so a wall of width built from boards of width and gaps of satisfies . Solving for the count gives the formula the page uses:
The extra spacing in the numerator is what puts a board, rather than a gap, at each end of the wall. It is also why the result is rarely a whole number: the pattern simply does not have to divide the wall evenly.
Battens
One batten covers one internal seam, and the count rounds the boards up first so a batten exists for the seam next to the ripped board:
Furring strip
The rows are horizontal supports fixed to the wall behind the boards, one every 2 ft (0.6096 m) of height plus the row at the base, and each row runs the full wall width:
If you would rather work to a fixed number of rows, typing that number works back to the height it implies, . That is useful when you want a row at a particular height, and confusing if you only meant to change the count.
Material totals and the opening allowance
Board and batten material are lengths, not areas: every board and every batten runs the full height, so the totals are the whole pieces times the height. Doors and windows then take their own allowance off that run:
The same arithmetic gives the batten total with in place of the board count. The run is worked in feet because the allowance is quoted in square feet, then shown in the length unit you selected. The allowance is subtracted as an area, which is a simplifying convention rather than a board-by-board cut list: a standard 7 ft by 5 ft door removes 35 ft² of allowance from the run. Treat the material totals as a purchasing allowance, and plan the actual cuts around each opening on the wall.
Trim
Rounding, and where it can surprise you
- The board and batten counts are shown as whole numbers, and their material totals use the next whole piece. When the exact board count rounds down — say 23.3, shown as 23 — the material total still pays for 24 boards, because the pattern needs that sliver.
- The row count is shown to the nearest whole row, while the strip total uses the next whole row. A 9.2-row wall reads as 9 rows and 30 m of strip, not 27 m.
- Material totals are rounded to whole units of the length unit you chose, and trim to one decimal place, so a total can differ from a hand calculation by less than one unit.
Units
Lengths accept centimetres, metres, inches, feet and yards, and the wall area accepts the matching square units. Whatever mix you enter is converted before the arithmetic, so a width in feet, a board width in centimetres and a height in metres all combine correctly.
Worked examples
Two situations that behave differently from the plain wall above: one where the pattern has to fit around openings, and one where you start from an area instead of a width.
A half-height panel with a door and a window
Situation: A 4.2 m wide, 2.6 m high panel behind a bench, using 10 cm boards with 10 cm gaps, one standard door and one standard window passing through it.
Entered
What comes back
- 22 boards, 21 battens and 5 rows shown — the exact count is 5.3, so the strip total uses 6 whole rows.
- With no openings the same panel would take 57 m of board and 55 m of batten. The door and window bring that down to 43 m of board and 40 m of batten.
- 25 m of furring strip (6 rows of 4.2 m) and 8.4 m of trim for the two rails.
In practice: Write the order as 22 boards and 21 battens, 25 m of furring strip and 8.4 m of trim, then add your own waste factor. The offcuts from around the door and window become the short pieces.
Starting from a known wall area
Situation: The wall area is already on a plan — 12 m² — and the height is 2.4 m, but the width is not written down.
Entered
What comes back
- The width appears as 5 m, and the furring strip and trim follow straight away: 25 m of strip and 10 m of trim.
- The board and batten counts stay empty until the board width and spacing are entered — the area alone cannot say how wide each board is.
In practice: With the width known you can price the wall by area or start planning boards; the board and batten counts fill in as soon as the board width and spacing are added.
Turning a length into a lumber order
The totals here are linear metres or feet. If your supplier sells by board foot, you need the thickness as well: take the total length into the Board Foot Calculator together with the stock dimensions to get the volume for the order.
Getting a number you can trust
Measure the widest and tallest points
Few walls are square. Take the width at the skirting, at mid-height and near the ceiling, and the height at both ends, then enter the largest of each. Boards have to span the tallest point and the last column has to cover the widest one.
Use the real face width, not the label
Timber is sold by a nominal size, and the actual face width is usually smaller. Measure the stock you plan to buy, or the mill’s actual dimensions, and enter that. Using the nominal number overstates each board, so the page undercounts the boards you actually need.
Decide where the rip goes before you buy
When the pattern does not fit evenly, one board is narrower than the rest. It usually looks best at a corner or against a trim board rather than in the middle of the wall. The material total already allows for that board; do not deduct it.
Add your own waste factor
The totals are a neat arithmetic result with no allowance for knots, splits, bowed stock or miscuts. For a first-time layout, adding roughly 5–10% to the board and batten lengths is a sensible cushion; keep the offcuts for the short pieces around openings.
Leave the row count alone unless you mean it
Rows of furring strip are calculated from the wall height and are normally left as they appear. Typing a row count changes the wall height instead of the row spacing — entering 9 rows on a 5 m wall pulls the height down to about 4.88 m. Use it only when the row positions are fixed by something else, such as a fixture or an existing rail.
Questions that come up
Can I use it for a half-height panel?
Yes. Enter the panel height as the wall height and the board and batten totals will follow the panel. Keep in mind that the furring rows still follow the two-foot rule, so a 2.6 m panel reports 5 rows and buys 6 whole rows of strip. If your rows are set by a fixture or a rail, plan them yourself and use only the board and batten counts here.
Why is the board total lower than boards × height?
Doors and windows. Each opening deducts its own area as an allowance, so a standard 7 ft by 5 ft door takes 35 ft² off the run. With the counts at zero nothing is deducted, so the total is the whole pieces times the height.
Do I need a batten at each end of the wall?
The batten count covers internal seams only, which is the usual finish when the ends die into trim or a corner. If you want a batten standing proud at an open end, or where the panel meets another wall, add one or two to the count yourself.
What if the doors and windows are bigger than the wall?
The wall area is flagged: the wall has to be larger than the area of everything cut into it. Recheck the opening sizes and the wall dimensions before trusting any of the material totals.
Limitations and assumptions
A purchasing estimate, not a site takeoff
- No waste, no thickness, no profile. The totals ignore offcuts, defects, board thickness, batten profile and the thickness of the furring. They are lengths to buy, not a cut list.
- The opening allowance is an area deduction. It estimates how much board and batten an opening saves rather than tracing each board around the reveal. Plan the cuts for doors and windows on the wall itself.
- One flat wall, no corners. Returns, external corners, angles, gables, sloping ceilings and openings that interrupt a board column are not modelled, and each of them usually needs extra material.
- The backing structure is your call. Stud spacing, sheathing, furring depth, fixings, weather barriers and clearances behind exterior siding depend on the wall build-up and on local requirements. Check them against your own situation and the manufacturer’s instructions before fixing anything.
- For structural or exterior work, get a professional involved. This page helps you buy material for a decorative layout. It does not assess structure, weathertightness, code compliance or safety, and those decisions belong with a qualified builder or engineer and your local authority.
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